In the fifth edition of the TRIMALHAS JOURNAL, we highlight the finishing and quality control department, two areas that are crucial to our company’s operations. It is in the laboratory that we test all our knits so that it meets our customers’ requirements and maintains the quality and longevity of the knits we design and produce.
In this issue, we interview engineers Mércia Mendes and Gabriela Cunha, who share their day-to-day work in the quality control area and explain how they deal with and resolve the nonconformities that arise during the production process of our knits.
LAB INTERVIEW
E: What is your background and how did you start working in the finishing/quality area?
G.C: I have a degree in Textile Engineering and 26 years’ experience in the knit industry, during which time I have gained experience in various sectors. I started my career with an internship at a weaving mill, where I spent five years in charge of the quality department. Those first few years were extremely enriching and definitely marked my path in the circular knits sector. This role also required direct contact with dyeing plants, which allowed me to deepen my knowledge of the dyeing and finishing processes.
Subsequently, I worked for 16 years in a garment factory, where I was responsible for purchasing knits, both that coming off the loom and that related to the dyeing and finishing processes. This new role gave me a broader view of the needs and challenges of the final stage of the textile chain. In addition, I took on a project for 3 years in a dyeing and printing plant, which gave me a deeper insight into the finishing processes, including conventional and digital printing. About 2 years ago, I accepted the challenge of joining the TRIMALHAS team in the finishing/ quality area. It has been a very challenging experience, both because of the quality and diversity of the products and because of the high level of excellence demanded by customers.
M.M: Like Gabriela, I have a degree in Textile Engineering from the University of Minho. After graduating, I did an internship in a company in the textile sector (seamless knitwear), specifically in the area of production planning, where I worked for the first 12 years of my professional career. With the increase in customer demands regarding the quality of articles, I began to take on responsibilities beyond planning and also dealt with non-conformities. This challenge allowed me to acquire a more in-depth knowledge of the most common problems and defects in knits, as well as ways of preventing and correcting them, from their origin (weaving) to finishing. Four years ago, the opportunity arose to join the TRIMALHAS team, where I currently work exclusively focused on the quality of knits after finishing. In this role, I carry out tests, analyze the results obtained and compare them with the clients’ requirements, ensuring that the products meet the established standards of excellence.
E: What do textile professionals learn most about in the area of finishing/quality?
G.C: Undoubtedly, the greatest learning experience is knowing all the stages of the textile process in depth. It is essential to understand the production chain from start to finish, which includes spinning, weaving, dyeing, finishing and dressing. In addition, it is crucial to have a clear awareness of our customers’ requirements, needs and difficulties. Knowledge of the entire production process is an asset for overcoming obstacles and proposing effective solutions. However, knowledge never runs out – it’s a continuous process. We must always be open to new learning
and innovations. There’s a saying that sums up this reality well in the textile sector: “Learn until you die and die without knowing”.
E: How is quality control carried out after the knit finishing process?
M.M: In order to carry out quality control on knits, it is essential to obtain as much information as possible from the customer about the purpose of the product. To do this, each customer must provide their specifications, which indicate all the parameters they consider important for analysis. In the quality control process, the most important aspects to assess include:
- Dimensional stability, where the behavior of the knit after domestic washing is evaluated in order to understand its changes in terms of width and length;
- Spirality, where the tendency to twist is analyzed; this characteristic is very common in knits produced on circular looms;
- Dye fastness, in which we assess staining and color changes;
- Touch and appearance: at this point it is important to see if the product meets all the characteristics required by the customer;
- A tendency for pilling (pilling test).
These are the tests we carry out internally, ensuring that we deliver our customers knits of the expected quality. Subsequently, if the customer requests it, we draw up a quality report describing the tests carried out and presenting the results. At the same time, the knit goes through a review process, in which an employee checks and quantifies possible defects, both in terms of knitting and finishing. There are also additional tests which, although not carried out in-house, may be required by clients in their specifications. In these cases, we use specialized external laboratories to carry out these tests.
E: What are the biggest challenges faced in the finishing and quality control process?
G.C: The biggest challenge is to deliver the knits within the increasingly short deadlines, without compromising the required quality and maintaining strict quality control!
M.M: In order for the quality control of a knit to be carried out properly, before any tests are carried out, it must be subjected to flat relaxation in a controlled temperature and humidity environment for at least 4 hours in order to stabilize. Only after this process has been completed are the aforementioned tests started. The washing process takes between 45 and 60 minutes, machine drying is another 45 minutes, but most knits are air-dried and this process is only completed the following day. If any problems are detected and need to be corrected, it is important to act quickly so as not to compromise the delivery date to the customer.
G.C: These days, there’s no time for things to go wrong. The textile industry involves a long production process, with many variables influencing the final product. It starts with the fiber, goes through spinning, knitting, dyeing and finishing. There are many stages, with different players, which can cause slight changes to the final product. That’s why it’s essential to have reliable partners at each of these stages. Each partner takes on a project based on their specialization and know-how, which allows us to supply quality products within the established deadlines.
E: Are there any initiatives to reduce environmental impact in the finishing sector? (e.g. water reuse, use of less toxic products, etc.)
G.C: Many interesting initiatives are being taken in this area. There’s the use of water, the Jets are currently prepared to react to a shorter shower duration, i.e. less water per kilo of knit to minimize water consumption. The processes themselves are evolving towards dyeing at lower temperatures to use less energy. In terms of energy, finishing and dyeing, there is also a lot of reuse in terms of rods. This is a very interesting topic and we had a lot to talk about, but that’s for another edition!
E: What most motivates you to continue working in the finishing/quality area?
G.C: In my job, I am constantly confronted with various problems. Although this can be stressful, it is also extremely rewarding to discover the source of a problem and come up with solutions. It’s a constant challenge and there’s even a kind of adrenaline rush involved when investigating a process and identifying the cause of the problem. Afterwards, it’s very motivating to come up with effective solutions that meet the customer’s needs.
E: What do you consider most important in the profile of an employee in this area?
G.C: Professionals in this field must have a dynamic profile, with the ability to deal effectively with pressure. It is essential to demonstrate emotional intelligence, a constant critical spirit and a high level of resilience, due to the demands associated with tight deadlines. In addition, it is essential to have a continuous desire to evolve in order to keep up with the growing demands of the market.
